People on a fishing boat in the Aegean Sea had an unsettling experience when they noticed square waves creating a chessboard-like pattern all around them. This phenomenon, which quickly drew concern, is an unusual sight in the ocean.
Square waves, also known as a cross sea, are caused by two interacting wave systems traveling at different speeds and trajectories.
This activity was examined by Dr. Silvio Davison from the Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR), Istituto di Scienze Marine (ISMAR) in Venice, Italy.
Understanding waves – the basics
Ocean waves are nature’s way of keeping the sea in constant motion. Wind blows across the surface, transferring its energy to the water and creating waves that can travel thousands of miles.
The size and strength of a wave depend on three things: wind speed, how long the wind blows, and the distance it travels over open water (also called fetch). The longer and stronger these forces act, the bigger the waves get.
